Q: I have just ordered a Lycoming rebuilt IO-360-A1A for my 1965 M20E Mooney. I am replacing a nearly run out Mattituck overhaul.
The engine has treated me very well for more than 1,900 hours with one top overhaul.
After break-in, I used Aeroshell W100 Plus (contains LW-16702) and a 12 ounce bottle of AvBlend at each oil and filter change. Oil analysis has been normal from the beginning.
Besides the Lycoming instructions for break-in, do you have any suggestions, from your years of experience, on how I should treat this “new” engine.
Should I still use the same oil and AvBlend? Do the roller tappets require different oils? And anything else you can recommend.
Chet Parham
Port Charlotte, Florida
A: First, let me say “thank you” for ordering that Lycoming rebuilt engine. I really appreciate the fact that by doing so I’ll continue to receive my retirement check at the end of the month!
Seeing that you are located in Florida, I agree with your choice of using the Aeroshell W100 Plus following the recommended engine break-in procedure as set forth in Lycoming Service Instruction 1427C.
As you mentioned, Aeroshell W100 does incorporate LW-16702, so adding the AvBlend may be an overkill.
However, it’s difficult to argue with success, which you apparently had with your previous engine, so while I feel the component of LW-16702 in the Aeroshell is sufficient, adding the AvBlend certainly shouldn’t hurt anything.
I’ll leave the decision up to you and feel confident that if you fly the aircraft frequently and change the oil and filter as recommended by Lycoming Service Bulletin 480F, you will get an excellent service life out of this engine.
Look up” Thermal Technology Services” located in Clearwater, Florida. Their process re-aligns the grain structure of the metal and makes it stronger. However, to get the best results, the temperature MUST be reduced at a specific # of degrees per minute, hour, etc, it MUST remain at a specific temperature for a specific time, and it MUST be returned to room temperature at a specific rate, These times and temperatures have been established over more than 25 years of research. Use this process along with Lycoming/Continental recommendations and you will be amazed at the results
Having read the MSDS for Avblend, I don’t see how it could possibly help an engine, being 99.9% mineral oil.
Can you say “mouse milk”?
Just like a car, use the proper oil and change when you’re supposed to, and you’re doing the best you can do.
Aircraft engines are designed and built to run 100% continuous power. The rings are seated against the cylinder wall with internal pressure. Running according to the Lycoming break-in schedule could be done for 2,000 hours or more.. Sudden rpm changes and rapid power reductions are what “de-tunes” valve trains and crankshaft counterweights.
Use full power for take-off and leave the throttle open so the power enrichment feature supplies adequate cooling fuel. Reduction smoothly of rpm reduces prop noise on the ground and in the cockpit. There is a table in the POH for safe MP and rpm. In general you can run full throttle at 2500 rpm.
Climb will reduce power, monitor temperatures of oil, and cylinder heads. In your run-up, smoothly cycle the prop. Getting hot oi into the prop and making sure the prop control and governor works is the goal. It is also important to see the governor reduce rpm during the runup and maintain the lower rpm.
Be sure to observe any rpm operating range restrictions.
Fly it regularly to get the oil above 180-200 degrees to vaporize water condensation. Better to leave it sit with oiled cylinder walls that to just run it on the ground for 10 minutes. If you will leave it on the ground more than a week, pull the plugs and spray some recommended rust preservative oil on the cylinder walls.
Don’t over prime when starting so you don’t “wash” the oil off the internal cylinder and valve train.
Why treat any rebuilt engine sny differently than a new, or an overhauled engine? At the very least, there are freshly honed cylinders and new rings in it!